Friday, June 13, 2014

Designs, Interviews, and a Whole Bunch of Stuff

Erin, Phoenix & Coral dwarfed by a feature that needs no introduction. April 2014.

As I said in the previous post, I have been a few months behind, but that doesn't mean things haven't been moving forward. Here's a bunch of stuff that's happened in the past number of weeks and a couple of things going on in the near future.

Interviews & The Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route

The Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route maps sold out fairly fast this winter. We immediately turned around a did another printing. If you need maps, we have them in stock. I've also gotten to do a number of interviews about the route in the past few months. Montana Headwall ran a nice piece in their spring issue, and more recently I talked with the folks at The Bicycle Story about the route, my outdoor excursions, and more. Dave gave the Hot Springs route a shout-out in a piece he penned for BackpackingLight (members-only-access). There were also a couple write ups in DirtRag, and on Boise State Public Radio.

Porcupine Rim with Devon(top), Blake(bottom), and Carter(left).

Family Trips

In late March and for spring break, Erin and I decided a trip out of town would be good for us and the kids. Moab was an easy choice. So, we packed up the car and headed south. Erin got to go skydiving for the first time, and I got to get out on bikes with some Missoula boys both in Moab and Fruita, but perhaps the best time was spent as a family. The highlight for me watching Phoenix mountain bike for his 1st, 2nd, and 3rd time ever, on the most famous mtb trail in the world, and totally crush it. This kid is built for outdoorsy sports, and I don't mean physically - although that too - I'm talking about his attitude. Nothing phases him. Always stoked and smiling. It's pretty cool to watch, and encourage.

Phoenix choosing his line in Moab

A couple weeks later Erin and I went down the Main Salmon River as part of guide-training trip, and and a university outdoor rec class, with a company she does part-time work for in the summers. I had reservations going into the trip, but still saw this as quality time I could spend with her.

Out on the Main Salmon River with Ryan behind the sticks. April 2014.
It's a shame the trip ended up pretty awful for the both of us. If it wasn't raining, it was windy, and if it wasn't raining or windy it was cold, and if it wasn't cold - wait, who am I kidding - it was always cold. So cold, we really couldn't even enjoy our surrounding, which were breathtaking. I could also go on about all kinds of other variables, but honestly it wasn't one thing that made the trip the worst I've ever been on, just a combination of absolutely everything. Kinda funny to think about now in hindsight. Type II shit-show "fun", for sure.

There were a couple of highlights too. It was fun hanging out with Bart and Ryan, and it was great to get behind the oars of an 18ft gear boat. I had never piloted a rig that big before, and it was definitely different learning to setup for a line well before I normally would in a smaller boat. I could not have asked for a more gracious and encouraging teacher then Ryan.

New Designs

Sometime this past winter I finished up the identity for Paul's rebranded bag company, Wanderlust. Because he is making bags for bikepacking, I didn't want the logo to have any relation to cycling. I wanted it to have the feel of the destination, not the activity. An end, not a means. The outcome, not the narrative. Where these bags will take you, not how you'll get there.

We went back and forth with a few ideas, but the campfire won out easily. The weight of the chosen condensed typeface matched the width of the logs in the logo perfectly, and we are both happy with how it all turned out.

I just wrapped up the above flyer for the American Packrafting Association. It's always fun to do pro bono work for a good cause. It was a pleasure to work with some great guys throwing ideas back and forth. A big thanks goes out to Tom, Brad, Forrest, and Jim for editing everything. And to Jim again for the use of such spectacular photos.

As for the design, we felt the end goal of it should to make the customer feel like APA is knowledgeable, friendly and approachable. We decided to keep it simple, use great photos and basic mission statements to let folks know who APA is, what they do, how to get more information and join the cause.

My personal goal was to not designing this flyer for packrafters - they (we) will buy the candy no matter what. I designed it for public officials. I want Sally Jewell to pick it up and have it visually communicate to her that APA is an organized, knowledgeable, friendly, and approachable organization. To accomplish that I chose to use the same serif typeface the Park Service uses. It's very graceful, but authoritative. Friendly, but bold. It could not be a more perfect fit.

Really though, I just tried to stay out of the way of the photos. I really wanted four specific scenes on the flyer: a calm river/ big landscape; one of someone hiking with paddles sticking out of their pack; a group shot; and a whitewater shot. The fact we got ones of people smiling was a huge bonus. I could not have dreamed of better photos to work with.

Summer Gatherings

I'll be attending 2 gatherings coming up in the next few weeks. The first is the Forest Fire Lookout Association's Western Regional Conference on the 27th - 29th of June, in Darby, Montana. I'll be presenting a slideshow of ski touring and bikpacking trips to towers in the Northern Rockies. Most of which have been featured here. If your into lookout towers, their history, and the future use of them, it would be worth checking out.

The second is the American Packraft Association's 1st annual Packraft Roundup, July 11th - 13th. It's being held along the North Fork of the Flathead River south of Polebridge, Montana, at the Big Creek Campground. This should be a great low-key event for packrafters, and those looking to get into the activity. Some of the most prolific practitioners will be in attendance for demonstrations, presentations, and questions. There will be organized trips for different ability levels. The itinerary is not out yet, but I suspect most will take place on the class I-II North Fork and the higher grade Middle Fork. Although, I do know of one group from Missoula planning on exclusively running big-drop creeks in Glacier NP. Needless to say, it should be a fun weekend.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Back on Track in the Back 40

Ted and Ruben climbing just above Franklin Bridge on the edge of the Rattlesnake Wilderness.. June 2014.

There is no getting around the fact that this year has been a challenge. Not the fun kind of train-hard-climb-a-mountain stuff, but the not fun post-traumatic kind of stuff. Because of the avalanche and everything that happened immediately after, I feel like I lost a month. It felt like in the month of March I was in some sort of alternate reality, and when I came to, everyone else was in April, but my internal clock was reading early March. I've been slowly catching back up.

I can tell it's helped by getting out the past couple of weekends - after spending a month pulling myself into some sort of decent shape -  to the area where I first started doing mountain bike overnights, the Rattlesnake National Recreation Area and Wilderness.

The Rattlesnake National Recreation Area and abutting Rattlesnake Wilderness lie a stones throw away from Missoula. The scene in the above photo is only a 12.5 mile ride north of downtown, and a easy one at that, giving Missoula some of the best access to sub-alpine Wilderness in the lower 48 for a local it's size.

Just about to get back on the bike on the Stuart Peak Trail. May 2014

The first weekend outing was to be a grand 3 day bike/ski/bike/ski/bike traverse. The plan was to ride and skin up over Stuart Peak, drop down to the Main Corridor Road via Lake Creek, and camp at Franklin Bridge. Then the next morning get myself up over Sheep Mountain and back home via the Sheep Mountain Trail and Jumbo Saddle. Timing was perfect, but my Stuart Peak curse proved to much for me to handle. Right at the Wilderness boundary i decided to take a break and eat some lunch. I was setting my bag down and starting to open it when the realization hit: I had forgot my food in the fridge. It was a long ski and ride back to town. When I got back, I called Shaun and got him to ride up the Main Corridor and camp at Franklin Bridge. Still made it to my destination that night, just not the way I thought I would.

The following weekend Rueben and Ted had plans to head to Franklin Bridge, and I hopped on the train. Ted brought a BOB trailer which can be a beast on the corridor not because of the grade, but because of the 'iceberg' rocks that seem to increase in number the further one gets away from Missoula. The beast did do an admiral job carrying the ridiculous amount of booze and pepperoni we threw at it. After a long night and a slight morning hangover we went a bit further on from the bridge to the scree field which offers the best views along the road, and then enjoyed a sunny ride back to town

Both weekends didn't quite go as expected but I ended up getting exactly what I needed from both: a chance to get out of town with friends and sleep outside in the woods. In other words - and just in time for summer - I feel back on track.

Side note: Each weekend I saw a group of riders with your standard bikepacking setups. Plus a couple guys on their own. This is nuts because I've never seen a 'bikepacking rig' in Missoula that I didn't know who's it was. This whole bikepacking is definitely catching on.

Here's a couple more shots from Franklin Bridge throughout the years:

Jeff, Tula and Steve at the Franklin Bridge camp spot. August 2010.

Carson hamming it up with our elk hunting rigs on Franklin Bridge. Sept 2011.
More: A Season in the Snake by Aaron Teasdale
Map: Rattlesnake Wilderness and Missoula
On the list: j5 - The Way We Do It

Monday, March 17, 2014

February 28th, 2014

Erin being lead away from the scene by a firefighter and our next door neighbor and longtime friend JJ. I am just out-of-frame to the right, digging. Missoulian photo

On February 28th, 2014 the unthinkable happened. An human triggered avalanche rushed down the side of Mt. Jumbo and hit the Lower Rattlesnake neighborhood in the city of Missoula. One house was completely destroyed, and numerous others damaged. Four people were buried, and one would later pass away. My step children were two of the victims. Coral was able to free herself, but Phoenix was completely buried for over 45 minutes.

Below is my best recollection of the events from that day. Time and details may be skewed due to the trauma of the situation, but the events hold true. The events are raw and may seem a bit disconcerting, but I hope everyone can see how every situation and decision that was made that day, even ones that seemed horrible at-the-time, played a connecting role to the outcome of these events for myself and my family. Upon reflection, everything is eerily but miraculously linked.

Words are beyond my deepest condolences to the family and community who lost so much more...

Good Morning

7:30am - 1438 Van Buren St. I wake to the forecasted blizzard conditions outside. Start making coffee and prepare to ski over the North Hills to the Orange Street trailhead, and then to work in downtown Missoula.

7:35 - Erin comes into the kitchen to yell at me, pissed that I woke her up on a snow day. We fight. I say perhaps the nastiest words I have ever spoken to her - something totally out-of-character - "It's not my fault all the men in your life die". She goes back in the bedroom. I instantly regret those words, not knowing where they came from.

8:10 - I try to make-up with Erin, understandably to no avail.

8:15 - Leave house, start skinning on Holly Street towards Greenough Park. Conditions are unlike anything I have ever experienced in the Northern Rockies, much less inside Missoula city limits. sustained 30+ mph winds and blowing snow.

8:30 - Arrive at the intersection of Duncan St. and Vine St., turn right up Duncan towards the trailhead. Snow is blowing so hard, and visibility is so low, I do not recognize my co-worker Jenn, who I pass right by.

8:40 - Conditions are even more intense on the road leading up Waterworks Hill. 50mph gusts from the east and north which require bracing. Poles blow sideways when trying to plant them. I briefly think about that tale of John Muir in the tree. Wind scoured bare ground sits next to 3ft deep drifts. Skinning on low-angle drifts sends 25ft cracks shooting. I'm freaked out. I decide to not head further back into the North Hills, keep the skins on, and take the most low-angle route directly to the Orange St. trailhead.

9:00 - Arrive safely at Orange St. trailhead. Drifts are so big I gingerly step over the fence and continue towards downtown.

9:10 - Downtown is a mess of snow. No need to take the skis off.


9:15 - Arrive at work. I'm stoked in awe at the conditions I just skied through. Not many people show up at work, and a large portion of those who do, used skis or snowshoes for their commute.

9:30 - My boss Carla cancels my yearly performance review. I finish updating flyers for the United States Bicycle Route System, which need to be done that day for Saara to take to the National Bike Summit in D.C. The Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route maps are flying off the shelves. Life is good.

10:00 - Me and Mickey decide - for certain - we are not going to winter camp over the weekend.

10:15 - Blake calls and asks if I want to ski after work. I'm on the fence.

10:30 - Travis and I hatch a plan to do a grand Missoula human-powered ski traverse that Sunday. It would involve us starting at my house on Van Buren, skiing the North Hills, walking through town, skiing Sentinel, and finally, skiing a line on Mt. Jumbo which leads right to my backdoor. We are aware of the closure, discuss it, and decide we would not disturb any elk if we ascended the treeless south ridge, and skied an open face. Everyone we invite is completely down with the plan. I am willing to pay a fine for trespassing.

11:00 - See on FB that Caleb skied Mt. Sentinel this morning, wonder if he had experienced the same wind crust cracking I had across town. He tells me he is thinking about skiing at the closed Marshall Mountain ski area after work.

12:00 - I publish a blog post about bucket-list skiing Mt. Sentinel. Mt. Jumbo looks beautiful center framed in the first photo.

12:30 - Me and Travis start talking about where to ski on Saturday. We discuss other places around we'd probably never be able to ski again. The failed Bitterroot Resort sounds like a good plan.

1:30 - John show us the best access to the Bitterroot Resort. We then talk about my Dynafit setup, and then, the avalanches which have taken place on Mt. Jumbo. John thinks one happened the year before he moved to Missoula. Which would be around 1992.

2:30 - Travis leaves work leaving me the only one left in the Routes and Mapping Department.

3:00 - Mickey asks if I want to ski at Marshall Mountain after work. I tell him I'll call him when I get home.

Going Home

3:15 - Leave work on skis.

3:30 - Stop at gas station on Broadway to pick up some Cold Smoke.

3:40 - While skinning up Van Buren, I stop and look up at the "L". I want to skin up to it, and ski the Mt. Jumbo gully down to my house. I think about the cracking in the North Hills this morning, and decide it would be too sketchy. And, Mickey is waiting for my call about skiing Marshall.

3:50 - Arrive home. Finally take my ski boots off, after have them on the entire day. Call Mickey. Tell him I am going to stay home and hang out with the kids, because I will be gone the next two days skiing.

3:55 - Try to apologize to Erin for my morning words - possibly the only words I could have said for her to be upset with me for so long. She will have none of it, and goes off into our room and opens the laptop while laying on her bed.

The Event

4:00 - I open a Cold Smoke, and sit down on the couch by the kids, who are playing video games.

4:05 - Coral and Phoenix announce they are going to play outside. I say "go for it!" Coral makes Phoenix put on thicker socks and more layers of clothing.

4:10 - I hear a snowplow coming around the back on Harrison St., which seems odd because they are having a hard time keeping the main road, Van Buren, plowed. The snowplow hits a pot-hole. Then, the snowplow is crashing into our house, and then stops. I breathe easy for a micro second. Erin is running out of the bedroom screaming "My babies, my babies", and runs out the front door. I go to the side door, open it, and see Erin's deceased father's canoe 20ft from where it sat center framed in the back of the house, and what looks like a wall from another house up against the back of our house, completely blocking access to the back yard. The amount of snow is a is a dead give-a-way that this is an avalanche.

4:11 - All emotion leaves my body. I go back inside. I put on my boots, gloves, and stumble around in the dark downstairs to find my shovel. I head outside and initially start digging on the south side of the the house because no one is there. After a few people show up, I leave to find Erin.

4:16 - The smell of natural gas is all around. People are yelling to be careful of live electrical wires. I find Erin on the north side of the house. She saw them get hit, and already has people digging in that area.  She is beyond hysterical. She has no shoes, socks, or any clothing on except an open robe. I get to her, she tells me to dig. Coral is crying. I look upslope and realize there use to be a house where now there is none. I assess where Erin saw the kids get hit, and where Coral landed, and where I assume the path would take Phoenix, and start digging.

4:18 - Chaos. People are coming onto the scene. I see in firefighter's and police officer's eyes that they are completely out of their element. One tries to hand me a probe. I calmly explain that probes are useless with this much debris, and we need to dig. I see backcountry skiers and snowboarders taking probes and shovels out of their packs. Neighbors have bigger snow shovels.

4:20 - There is an 80 year old man next to me in a well-worn Filson wool coat. He can barely move any snow, but is still digging.

4:25 - I start getting mad at people because I think they could be standing on Phoenix. I say nothing. I realize I am starting to feel emotion, and need to leave the scene. I also know the statistics. Phoenix is dead. I need to find Erin.

The debris from a garage rests against our house. Photo taken the day after.

4:26 - I head towards Van Buren and see JJ. I ask her where Erin is. She says Erin is in one of the vehicles lining the road. I walk down the center of the road. Police cruisers and ambulances flank me on both sides as far as I can see. Lights flash all around. I'm starting to slightly lose it.

4:27 - I finally find Erin. She is in an ambulance with Coral. She is still hysterical. She screams that she cannot lose another son - a reference to her son Wind, who died when he was 20 days old, 12 years ago. I regain what composeur I have lost. I hold her. A chaplain tells her that when they find Phoenix, they will bring him to St Pat's Hospital, which is where we are going to go. She looks at me, and says, "You know he is dead. You know avalanches. You know the statistics". I tell her this is not a standard backcountry avalanche. This is different. There is tons of debris, which can keep him alive. She is still hysterical, but sees I am sincere, and calms slightly.

4:30 - Erin wants to call her mom to tell her to pray. She does. I call Mickey and tell him to get off Marshall Mountain. I fear he could trigger a slide. He doesn't believe me that Phoenix is buried. Then, he does. I tell him to head to St Patrick's Hospital. I call my mom and tell her to pray. I am not religious.

4:40 - I head back to the house to grab some things before we head to the hospital. Someone tries to tell me I can't enter the area. I enter the area, the house, grab the stuff, and head back to the ambulance.

4:45 - Erin's feet are freezing. I try to put her Mercury Mitts on them. The chaplain and EMT's help me to calm Erin, and go over our plan. They say they need to get Coral to the hospital to check her out, which is complete bullshit, but works perfectly. I follow their lead. We also tell Erin we need to be at the hospital when Phoenix arrives.

4:55 - We leave for St Pat's. Nathan text's me asking if everything is ok because it looks like there is some activity in our neighborhood. Word is starting to get out around town. I tell him the news, and ask him to pray.


5:05 - Arrive at the hospital. We are taken into an ER room. Coral is assessed to have a bruised tail bone. The staff is more then nice. Some are crying. They have found Phoenix and he is on his way to us. No other info is given.

5:25 - Phoenix has arrived, and is breathing. Erin won't get up off the floor. She says she needs to be in the most humble position possible. Mickey arrives.

5:30 - Two big tough-guy teddy-bear police detectives arrive. They are all but in tears, and get down on the ground to hug Erin. They ask if we knew of any other people who might be buried. We say no. They ask if we saw anyone up one the hill before the slide. We say no. I ask what they know. They don't know much.

5:45 - Someone give us the skinny. Phoenix is breathing, but has a breathing tube hooked up. He doesn't appear to have any major external damage, besides a few surface scrapes and bruises. They are still looking into possible internal injuries. No one will know if he has brain damage until he wakes. He needs to slowly warm up, and is doing so. He is sedated to reduce hazardous spikes in temperature rise. Stacy, JJ, and Sage arrive.

6:00 - We are taken to see Phoenix. He is in a room with a ton of people monitoring him. He is still sedated. They say we can hold his hand and talk to him. His hand is cold. I fight back tears and tell him we are going to go ski "black diamonds" when he gets out. I tell him we are going to shred some trail when he gets out. The dam breaks and the tears flow.

6:01 - They say he is warming fine, but is not in the clear yet.

6:10 - I go out into the hallway to sign release papers for Coral. I have a larger conversation about the event with the detectives. They tell me they have received word that this was probably a human triggered event. I explain to them what that means, and draw a map of the slope, path and runout zone - to the best of my abilities. I tell them I am intimate with the slope and gully in question because I trained on it last fall before the elk closure was in place. I tell them the steepest part is the last few hundred feet before the bottom. I tell them how the winds are blowing in the perfect direction to load the gully with snow.

6:20 - I call and talk to Phoenix's father for the first time ever. I tell him the news. He sounds stoned. He laughs, and says, "I thought you were going to tell me he was dead". Then, laughs again.

6:40 - Phoenix is warming. We are told two other people were found, and are alive.

7:00 - Phoenix is transferred to the ICU. We head upstair to the ICU waiting room, and wait.

7:30 - We go see Phoenix. He is still sedated, but warming better then expected. There is a possible cut on his spleen, but not of immediate concern.

8:00 - We call people. We txt people. We talk to people. We wait.

8:30 - We call people. We talk to people. We wait.

9:00 - We wait.

9:30 - Phoenix has woken up. He immediately is confused about his surroundings, but makes a dumb joke. A look of concern washes over the doctor's face at the possibly retarded comment, but we know Phoenix, and instantly realize he has no brain damage. We laugh tears. He wants to talk about the avalanche. He remembers being in the snow. He tried to yell for Coral, who always takes care of him. He tried to bite his way out, but when he realized he couldn't he went to sleep. I think how some might view this action as asphyxiation taking over, but I think how it would be a completely normal Phoenix response to think, "Ehhh, no one is coming right now. I'll just take a nap". I think about how this non-panicked childlike thinking process might have saved his live.

The man who probed Phoenix showing where he was found. Photo taken the day after.

9:40 - Only two visitors are allowed in the room at one time. I leave so Coral can visit with her brother, and best friend, Phoenix. I send out a mass txt.

10:00 - Phoenix's temperature is back to normal. He still has to keep his back brace and neck brace on until conclusive test result come back saying otherwise. Which, should be in the morning.

10:30 - Our friends visit with Phoenix. Everyone breathes a sigh of relief. Caroline visits and drops supplies. Then, heads out for more.

11:00 - Mickey brings back some food for us. Phoenix can only eat ice cubes. Coral leaves with Stacy, JJ, and Sage to stay the night at Stacy and Ruben's place.

11:30 - Knowing Phoenix will be ok, I leave with Mickey to try to get some sleep. I know ether me or Erin will need to be awake tomorrow, and there is no way she is going to get any sleep.

Above is my best recollection of the events from that day. Time and details may be skewed due to the trauma of the situation, but the events hold true. The events are raw and may seem a bit disconcerting, but I hope everyone can see how every situation and decision that was made that day, even ones that seemed horrible at-the-time, played a connecting role to the outcome of these events for myself and my family. Upon reflection, everything is eerily but miraculously linked.

Words are beyond my deepest condolences to the family and community who lost so much more...

On the playlist: Jeff Turman, Doug Brinkerhoff & Erin Snyder - Winter's Come and Gone